Wandering the West

On June 25 and 26, 1876, the Battle of the Little Bighorn took place on the plains of what is now southeastern Montana. Over the course of those two days, members of the U.S. 7th Cavalry, led by Lieutenant Colonel George Custer, engaged in a fierce firefight with thousands of Lakota Sioux, Arapaho and Northern Cheyenne warriors. As most students of American history know, 263 cavalry members lost their lives, including Custer himself. Also referred to as “Custer’s Last Stand,� the battle was one of the final efforts made by native tribes to retain their migratory hunting practices and their traditional lifestyle.

The National Monument, located about 65 miles south of Billings, Montana and 73 miles north of Sheridan, Wyoming, is home to a museum, several memorials, a cemetery and other informational exhibits. The monument is operated by the U.S. National Parks Service and is open every day of the year except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years Day. However, longer hours of operation are in effect during the summer than at other times.

The museum is filled with exhibits that relate to the battle. Visitors can see weapons, Native American artifacts and archeological finds. They can also view a 17-minute film that is shown regularly and summarizes the background of the battle and the way it transpired. During the summer, several different ranger talks are scheduled throughout the day at 45-minute intervals. They cover topics such as The Cavalry Soldier in 1876, Battle Talk and The Indian Village.

Drivers may take a 4.5-mile self-guided tour that connects the Custer battlefield with the Reno-Benteen battlefield along which points of interest are designated. An independent concessionaire also provides bus tours of the area that last approximately one hour and are guided by members of the Crow Tribe.

I visited the battlefield on a summery day last July. Even though I had been there several times in my life, this trip was memorable because my sisters and I had a 13-year-old family member with us. Seeing the artifacts through his eyes and experiencing the awe of standing exactly where a historic event took place brought the reality home. All of us enjoyed the bus tour, which was hosted by an enthusiastic and knowledgeable young man and we all left the monument with the feeling that our lives had been enriched. I hope to go back sometime on June 25, when the battle is reenacted by skilled riders and marksmen

Montana's Glacier National Park is one of the most scenic and historic of all the parks in the United States and contains too many attractions to mention in one short article. However, travelers in western Montana, even those with a tight schedule and limited time to enjoy the mountain vistas, will not want to miss Lake McDonald and its historic lodge.

The clear, cold glacier-fed lake is surrounded by snow-topped, tree-lined mountains that soar into the bright blue sky. It is located just 10 miles from the park's entrance at West Glacier and it makes a perfect place to stop for a quick, but picturesque lunch or dinner.

Mc Donald Lodge, on the lake's shore, opened for business in 1914. Its builder, John Lewis was inspired by the surrounding peaks and wanted to construct a Swiss-chalet style inn that would complement its setting. By all accounts, he succeeded in accomplishing his goal and countless visitors have enjoyed his handiwork during the past 96 years. The lodge, with its interior columns made from gigantic, intact cedar and cottonwood tree trunks, has been carefully maintained, while being updated enough to make it comfortable for modern guests. Since 1987, the main lodge has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Those who wish to participate in a Ranger-guided tour of the lake aboard a historic wooden boat may do so starting from the dock in front of the lodge. The famous Red Buses of Glacier Park also stop there to pick up passengers for a drive up Going to the Sun Road, the very heart of Glacier. There is a gift shop, camp store, and information about fishing, rafting and canoeing trips, as well.

There are several eating-places in the Lodge complex including a Grill and Pizzeria, a lounge and Russell's Fireside Dining Room, which has a wall of windows facing the lake. Tourists can also pick up box lunches to take with them as they hike, fish or enjoy the views.

I recently stopped at Lake McDonald with my family while on a quick summer getaway. We enjoyed a delicious lunch in the Fireside room and were pleased to find several types of wild game on the menu. Even though the area was bustling with activity on the weekend of Independence Day, the service was friendly and efficient, the atmosphere unique, and the scenery incomparable. If you are anywhere near Glacier Park, you owe it to yourself to spend at least an hour or two at Lake McDonald.

Reference:
www.glacierparkinc.com

Drivers traveling through North Dakota on I 94 will want to take time for a stop in Medora. This small town near the Montana border has grown skilled at welcoming visitors from all around the world. It is situated at the edge of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, which contains 110 square miles of the intriguing, colorful formations known as the badlands. There is a visitor's center at the park's entrance that includes a museum and a theatre. At the center, guests will learn more about the 26th U.S. president who spent several years living and hunting in the badlands. Visitors can see a restored cabin that Roosevelt used on his cattle ranch along with displays of many personal items that once belonged to "Teddy" as he was affectionately known.

Many other attractions are found in Medora, as well:

• The town is the site of the newly built North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame. It is an interpretive center packed with information about Native Americans, cowboys, ranching and rodeo. The museum contains a Hall of Honorees and a 45-seat theater as well as meeting space for visiting organizations.
• Bully, a one-act play that chronicles the life of Theodore Roosevelt, is performed each afternoon during the summer. Performances are held at the Old Town Hall Theater.
• Just west of Medora, visitors can tour the Chateau deMores, a home built by the French aristocrat Marquis de Mores, who started a meat packing plant and several other enterprises in Medora in the 1880s. He named the town for his lovely wife and was responsible for much of its early growth.
• An Antique Doll Museum is located in the house the Marquis built for his wife's parents, which is now on the National Register of Historic Places. It showcases a large collection of toys and dolls from years gone by.
• People who love outdoor recreation will find hiking and biking trails near Medora, a world-class golf course, horseback and buggy rides, swimming and miniature golf in and around town.

My personal favorite activity in Medora is attending the nightly musical show. It is held in an outdoor amphitheater that supplies a great view of the badlands and has been performed continuously on summer evenings since 1964. On a recent visit to Medora, my husband and I were treated to an energetic revue of songs and dances presented by talented young people from all over the country. I have seen the musical several times and have never been disappointed with the quality of the performance. When combined with a stay at the historic Rough Riders Hotel, it makes the perfect ending to a busy day in Medora filled with incredible scenery, fascinating history and educational activities.

The Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area is divided almost equally between Utah and Wyoming. Its main attraction is the Flaming Gorge Reservoir, which is formed by a dam built on the Green River. It is a huge body of water (about 91 miles long) that provides opportunities for all kinds of water sports. These include fishing, boating, water skiing, houseboating, wake boarding, and more. Hikers, campers, and wildlife watchers also find plenty to do in the recreation area.

There are dozens of US Forest Service campgrounds in the region, some of which can only be reached by boat. Lodging can also be found in the nearby towns of Manila, Dutch John, and Vernal. There are five marinas located around the lake that provide boat launches, rental services, storage facilities and camping supplies.

The scenery in the Gorge is varied and beautiful. Colorful red and orange cliffs rise steeply from the surface of the clear water, giving the park its name. The Ashley National Forest surrounds the reservoir and provides a home to many kinds of wildlife in its thick groves of juniper and pine.

Dinosaur National Monument is nearby and features a quarry with 1600 visible bones from 11 different species. Visitors to the recreation area can also see Indian petro-glyphs and well-preserved homesteader cabins. There are several scenic self guided drives plotted out for tourists that explore canyons used by outlaws, breathtaking landscapes and natural wonders of all kinds.

Because the elevation at the dam is over 6000 feet, the water in the lake stays cool all summer and the air temperature rarely rises above 80 degrees. This means the trout fishing is excellent, both in the reservoir and along the Green River. Many fish tipping the scales at 30 pounds or more are caught each year.

Water skiers and wake boarders are attracted to the refreshing water, as well, and they appreciate the steep canyon walls that keep the surface of the lake smooth most of the time.

My family has visited the Gorge several times, on some occasions camping along the shore and at other times renting a houseboat for three or four days. Camping is always fun, but nothing beats the houseboating experience. Our entire family can sleep in the living area or on the boat’s upper deck. Folks of all ages enjoy cruising through the canyon and splashing into the water from the roof-mounted slide. There is plenty of time to visit, eat, play games and watch for the bighorn sheep that come down to the water for a late evening drink.

The Flaming Gorge is a spectacular place full of one-of-a-kind sights. Be sure to visit there if you are ever in northern Utah or southern Wyoming.

After taking such pleasure in the ocean vistas of Green Island, my daughter, husband and I were sorry to leave. But we enjoyed a comfortable train ride to the city of Hualien and checked into our beautiful, modern hotel. The next morning, we boarded a tour bus that would take us to Taroko National Park about 15 km away. We knew the sights on the tour would be described only in Chinese, but we hoped that the scenery would make up for any lack of historical information coming our way. We needn't have worried. There were only two other people on the bus, both of whom spoke some English, and they were as friendly and helpful as all the other Taiwanese we had come in contact with. They were only too glad to explain the places of interest we passed.

Our bus climbed from the sea-level city of Hualien up steep twisty roads until we reached the majestic Taroko Gorge. Its name means "magnificent and beautiful" in the native tribal language, and it certainly lives up to its billing. Cut by the beautiful green-blue Liwu River, the gorge forms the world's deepest marble canyon. The sheer white cliffs gleam in the sunshine and tropical vegetation flourishes on all sides. Our bus stopped several times to allow us to hike for a while. At one point, when touring the Tunnel of Nine Turns, we were required to don hard hats and walk under low-hanging rock walls. At other times, we hiked near waterfalls, over swinging bridges, and past signs that kept us bemused even though they were posted in both English and Chinese. We could only assume that something had been lost in the translation. (see picture)

After a nice lunch served in the park's headquarters, we drove to the famous Shrine of the Eternal Spring. Our tour companions explained that some Taiwanese people come regularly to the shrine to worship.

When we had explored the park, our bus took us back to the city by way of the beach. There, I had my first taste of barbecued squid, cooked outside, cut in chunks, and served in a paper bag with a long skewer to use as a fork. It was quite good, though the tentacles had a rubbery texture I did not enjoy. We arrived back at our hotel filled with memories of a wonderful day.

After spending about six days in Chiayi and its surrounding region, my husband, daughter and I were anxious to visit some of the coastal areas of Taiwan. We traveled by train to Taitung and from there boarded a ferry to Green Island, 33 km off the coast. All the members of my family enjoy the water, and camping and boating are some of our favorite summer activities, so we were looking forward to the ferry ride and the sights it would offer. We disregarded the warning from our travel planner stating that we should take motion-sickness pills because we all felt sure of our ability to ride out any type of ocean conditions.

As it turned out, that confidence was entirely misplaced. About three minutes after the modern, comfortable craft left the dock; we passed the breakwater and entered the channel between Green Island and the rest of Taiwan. It was the start of the roughest ride any of us have ever experienced. The ferry was pummeled by spray as it climbed up on 8-foot waves, then plunged into deep chasms carved in the surface of the sea. After just a few minutes in the open water, the rustling noises of "motion discomfort" bags being opened could be heard in all parts of the cabin. This was followed quickly by the sound of retching and gagging from all sides. In more than thirty years of marriage, I have never known my husband to get seasick, carsick, or airsick...until now. Without further description, let's just say that we arrived on Green Island pale and weak and in need of a place to lie down.

Fortunately, our hosts at Jack's Hotel met us at the dock and understood our plight immediately. After a half hour or so of rest, we were revived and ready to see what Green Island has to offer. We were given the use of two motor scooters for the duration of our stay and set off to circle the island on them. We enjoyed spectacular ocean views, especially Sleeping Beauty rock. We also passed a small herd of curious water buffalo, Green Island's historic prison, and the famous salt water hot springs.

During our two days on the island, we explored each of those places of interest in more depth and enjoyed the displays at the Green Island Visitor Center and the island's lighthouse. Our daughter participated in a snorkeling trip and had a good time even though the air temperature never got much higher than the 60s. Hubby and I overcame our trepidation about spending more time on any type of watercraft and toured the coral reefs on a glass-bottomed boat.

The food was consistently good on Green Island, and the locals never failed to be friendly and helpful. When I ventured out on one of the scooters by myself and had trouble getting the engine started, I had three smiling islanders ready to assist me within minutes.

The three of us were sorry to see our time on the island come to a close. We armed ourselves with motion-sickness tablets for the ferry ride back to Taiwan, but we needn't have bothered. The wind was much calmer that day, and the ride uneventful. So, we were left with (mostly) good memories of our stay on a tropical isle.

One of the more interesting and scenic places I visited with my husband and daughter on our recent trip to Taiwan was Alishan or Ali's Mountain. It is a national park about 72 km from Chiayi, the city where my daughter teaches English. The park used to be serviced by a narrow gauge railroad that traversed some spectacular tropical mountains. But unfortunately, the typhoon that occurred in the fall of 2009 damaged the track, and the train was not running when we were there.

The three of us were not deterred, however, and decided to make the climb on two motor scooters. Since they are everywhere in Taiwan, it was a fairly easy matter for us to rent our transportation, pack a few things in an overnight bag and head for the hills. The first hour or so of the trip was a little nerve-wracking, because the traffic was quite heavy and I felt extra-vulnerable on the back of our little scooter. But after we left the city and began to climb into the countryside, the scenery more than made up for any discomfort.

I've visited plenty of mountainous areas all over the United States and Canada, but I have never viewed mountains in the tropics. Seeing palm trees and flowering shrubs growing near steep cliffs, waterfalls, and sheer drop-offs was a first for me.

We were in Taiwan in January, and even though the island is situated right on the Tropic of Cancer, it can sometimes be a little chilly in the winter. As we started up into the mountains that day, it was sunny and about 70°, but the air got colder and colder the higher we rode. By the time we reached our destination 2400 m above sea level four hours later, there was snow flying through the air and we were all looking forward to our nice warm hotel room.

Think again. It was about 4:00 pm when we checked in and we were told that the heat would be turned on at 6:00! I opted to bury myself under all the blankets on the bed while my two intrepid companions went out to "hike themselves warm."

The next morning we woke early to join a sunrise bus tour to a nearby peak. Watching the sun come up is a favorite event for most visitors to Alishan, and it is often a thing of wonder. The park's high peaks frequently rise above the clouds, and the first rays of the morning sun reflecting off them make a glorious sight. We were fortunate enough to enjoy a fairly clear morning and took in some unbelievable vistas.

The four-hour ride down the mountain that afternoon didn't seem nearly as arduous as the trip up. Our scooters behaved perfectly and got us back home just before a drenching downpour began. So, our first major adventure in Taiwan was a successful one. It just goes to show that native Montanans who are used to riding dirt bikes and four-wheelers through sagebrush-choked pastures can adapt to small scooters, city traffic, and tropical sights with ease.

For a complete change of pace from our usual camping, ATV, boating, or RV trips around the Mountain West region, my husband and I recently flew for 22 hours and arrived culture-shocked and jet-lagged in the tropical island nation of Taiwan. Of course, our motive for this trip was different, too, because our oldest child and only daughter has been living and teaching English there for the last nine months. So we put aside our serious reservations about visiting a country where street signs and menus don't even employ a familiar alphabet, let alone use English, and made the journey.

I am still assimilating all of the things I learned from the adventure, but here are a few of my basic impressions about Taiwan and its culture:

• People are not as small in stature as I expected but they are more friendly, helpful and welcoming to a visiting American than I would ever have thought.
• Eating with chopsticks is not so hard if you bring your bowl of rice right up to your mouth like the natives do.
• The railroad system is impressive, with trains (some of them the ultra-modern, high-speed variety) leaving nearly every half hour for just about all possible destinations on the island.
• Barbecued squid, steamed dumplings, and sashimi (raw fish) are quite tasty.
• People can do an amazing amount of business using only a motor scooter (which greatly outnumber cars) as personal transportation. We saw as many as five people riding one scooter and all kinds of cargo being carried, including huge bundles of fresh garden produce and large flat screen TVs.
• The countryside is varied and beautiful, consisting of lovely beaches, fertile plains covered with scores of different crops, and soaring, snow-sprinkled mountain peaks.

I intend to describe some of the Taiwanese national parks and other areas we visited in future blog entries, but for now, I will close by saying that the trip has made an indelible impression upon me. As a person who has spent more than 50 years dreaming of traveling (though I never had Asia high on my list of must-see places), I am more convinced than ever that visiting a far-off land has immeasurable value. I have a new and deeper appreciation for the diversity of lands and peoples that make up our world, and I hope to experience even more of them for myself as time goes on. So thank you, dear daughter, for giving your dad and me the nudge we needed.

Located in the Absaroka Mountains just north of Yellowstone National Park, Chico Hot Springs Resort and Day Spa provides a terrific place for a getaway weekend. Visitors can enjoy breathtaking high country scenery, soaking in two natural hot springs pools, delicious meals at the world-class restaurant, and many other activities.

There are written records of the presence of the hot springs at Chico that date back as far as 1865 when they were mentioned in a miner's diary. By 1900, a lodge had opened on the site and a hot pool was constructed to accommodate visitors. Advertisements proclaiming the curative power of the mineral-rich waters spread far and wide. Over the years, different shapes and sizes of pools have been utilized, and for the first half of the 20th century, a wooden structure covered the bathing area. In 1957, however, the roof collapsed. Fortunately, about 70 people who were soaking that day walked away unhurt, and bathers became fond of the open-air experience. The roof was never rebuilt.

Today, guests can soak in the two naturally heated pools any day of the year from 7:00 in the morning to 11:00 at night. The larger pool has an average temperature of 96 degrees, and the smaller one averages 103. Admission to the pool is included with lodging, and day passes may also be purchased at the front desk.

I have been fortunate enough to visit Chico many times. During the summer months, the views are spectacular. There are all kinds of wild flowers blooming in the area, and birds, deer and other animals are plentiful. Trail rides are available from the Chico Horse Barn, and hiking opportunities abound.

Wintertime visits to Chico are my favorite, however. There is nothing like soaking in the hot pool as snow lands in your hair and steam rises from the water. The short hop in the frosty air from the comfort of the water back to the hotel is invigorating, and pure relaxation is the order of the day.

A weekend at Chico takes a visitor back to an earlier time. None of the guest rooms are equipped with TV, and many are filled with antique furnishings. In the main lodge, visitors use the sparkling clean "community" bathrooms located in several spots along the corridors. The food, both from the poolside grill and the main dining room is excellent, and the service can be described as Western hospitality at its finest.

On two occasions, my husband's sister and brother-in-law treated my family to a stay in the lodge and Christmas dinner in the "Wine Cellar," a private dining room. We enjoyed royal treatment and delicious food. Family members of all ages met in the pools for leisurely conversation, and there was plenty of time to gather together for games and jigsaw puzzles in the lobby. Some of our group took advantage of the services provided by the Day Spa, which include massages, wraps and other luxurious treatments.

If you are planning a trip to Yellowstone or Montana at any time of the year, be sure to put Chico Hot Springs on your agenda. It is a unique and marvelous experience.

www.chicohotsprings.com

Located just 15 miles east of Interstate 25, Guernsey State Park is the ideal place to spend a summer weekend. It is home to Lake Guernsey on the North Platte River and is popular with boaters, swimmers, hikers, campers, and fishermen. The scenery around Guernsey is some of the most appealing in all of Wyoming with towering sandstone cliffs, thick groves of juniper and pine trees, sandy beaches, and rolling grasslands.

There are several man-made wonders to be seen in the park, as well. The Civilian Conservation Corps or CCC worked in the park from 1933 until 1936. Projects that were undertaken in an effort to provide jobs for unemployed Americans have been serving citizens for more than 70 years. The CCC built several roads, bridges, buildings, campsites, and hiking trails which are still in use today.

Some of the most interesting of these projects are the Guernsey Museum and a recreational structure known as The Castle. Both were constructed from local, hand hewn timbers and flagstone quarried from the Thermopolis area. Both structures sit on high bluffs overlooking the water. The museum has displays that chronicle the history of the area, and its wildlife and native plants. The Castle features a huge stone fireplace and a curving stone staircase that leads to an upper observation area.

I spent a fun-filled weekend at Guernsey with several friends and family members. The wake boarders and water skiers in the bunch enjoyed the smooth water created by sheltering cliffs that rise sharply around the lake. All of us appreciated the well-maintained campground, boat dock and other facilities.

We reserved the Castle for an evening meal and enjoyed a barbecue in the enormous fireplace. Watching the setting sun reflecting off the water was an inspiring experience.

Two other historic sights are a short distance from Guernsey State Park. Register Cliff is a sandstone wall that rises from the North Platte River valley. It still looks much like it did in the 1840s and 50s when hundreds of travelers on the Oregon Trail passed by and carved their names into the rock. Trappers and other early visitors made some inscriptions as early as 1829. In the latter part of the nineteenth century, there was a Pony Express stop near the cliff, and a stage stop after that. Visitors can read informational signs that line the walkway at the bottom of the cliff.

The Oregon Trail Ruts are worth a visit, as well. Even though traces of the route can be found in several places, this site near Guernsey is unique. Here the ruts made by the wagon wheels of hopeful settlers were cut as deep as four feet in solid rock.

Whether you enjoy pioneer history, water sports, or just being outside, I urge you to consider Guernsey State Park when looking for an outdoor adventure in central Wyoming.

Travelers driving north from Billings on highways 87 and 191 for the first time are likely to be surprised when they reach the James Kipp recreation area. After traversing about 155 miles of wide-open roadway across seemingly endless gently rolling grassland, your car will plunge without warning-into a forbidding looking area known as the Missouri Breaks.

Gone are the treeless plains covered with hardy, brown-tinged native grasses you have been viewing for hours. Instead, you see rows of huge cottonwoods assembled along both banks of the river like townspeople preparing to watch a parade. The valley floor is green from spring through fall with vegetation that is found in few other places in Montana. The hills on both sides of the river are steep, colorful, clay knobs that have been carved by wind and water into various shapes that defy description.

And at the heart of it all flows the mighty Missouri, which carries water all the way to St. Louis where it merges with the Mississippi. It is a place full of natural beauty, wildlife, pioneer history, and recreational opportunities.

My husband and I took our aged RV and a four-wheeler to spend a getaway August weekend where Highway 191 crosses the Missouri. It is the location for a camping spot known as the James Kipp Recreation Area. We were treated to two days of peace and quiet along with an abundance of trails and historic sites to explore. Named for a fur trader who established one of the earliest trading posts in the region, the campground has been developed to handle all types of recreational vehicles. A boat ramp is available for accessing the river, and restrooms (without showers) are provided.

Kipp is at the western edge of the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge, which encompasses about 1,100,000 acres of land stretching more than 150 miles on both sides of the river. The refuge is managed by the US Fish and Wildlife Service with the goal of allowing visitors to experience the area in its natural and unspoiled setting. Motorized vehicles are permitted only on the many numbered trails that crisscross the region.

We found the Auto Tour Route to be especially interesting because it is dotted with interpretive signs at regular intervals, which explain the history of the area. We were able to see the remains of an early homestead, envision the way the river looked when Lewis and Clark passed through, and learn facts about native plant and animal life. A large elk herd is often present a few miles downriver, and many species of birds make the area home. It is indeed one of Montana's natural wonders.

One note: if you are near the James Kipp area anytime during hunting season (from mid-August through late November), you should not expect to experience the same isolation and calm that we enjoyed. The region brings in big game hunters from all over the west who are eager to explore the wonders of the area for themselves.

My little hometown of Terry sits near the banks of the Yellowstone River in southeastern Montana. Residents of the town can look across the river and see an impressive range of hills known as the badlands. They support very little vegetation, (thus the name) but possess a rugged beauty because of the various colors of clay and interesting formations that make up the area.

In recent years, hikers and ATV enthusiasts have discovered that these badlands make a very good place to get some fresh air and see a unique landscape. The shale and sandstone outcroppings along the Calypso Trail have been exposed to wind, rain, snow and hail for ages, and have been carved by the elements into spires, tabletops, obelisks, arches and a myriad of other shapes. The trail is primitive, and there are no services provided for visitors, but the views are breathtaking and otherworldly in many cases.

I visited the area in June of 2009 with my husband and youngest son, two sisters, and various other extended family members and friends. We reached the trailhead by driving six miles west of Terry on Highway 10, then following the Milwaukee Road, which uses an abandoned railroad bridge to cross the Yellowstone. We were all treated to a perfect Montana Sunday afternoon excursion with hardly a glimpse of another human being. Riding a four-wheeler over every rise and around each curve in the trail was an adventure because we never knew what kind of landscape would greet us next. If any of you are ever in the southeastern corner of the Treasure State, I encourage you to get a close look at the badlands along the Calypso Trail. It's an experience you won't soon forget.

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